CAMIEL FORTGENS INTERVIEW

“Why would we need to make things better than they are?”

Camiel Fortgens garments are as much social as they are individual. Since he graduated from the Design Academy in Eindhoven in 2014, Camiel and his small team of like-minded creatives have put forth wonderful collections of unpolished yet highly wearable pieces that are truly made for today. Both liberating and unpretentious his clothes create a sincere connection to the wearer and integrate into a realistic, contemporary life outside the mainstream.

Days: Camiel, can you tell us about your vision as a designer? What drives your work?

Camiel: Vision… well, I guess I’m more following my intuition. Intuition that’s a reflection of my surroundings, this time, this generation, this society. I think it’s important to represent the human with its imperfections; the ‘real’. The general image is lacking imperfection, the real, honest, normal, reason, the questioning. It feels like we have forgotten to question ourselves, and just follow and build on from what we know. I think it’s important to show other ways and question the norm. I think to question, that’s the closest to a vision, although it’s more of a belief than a planned concept.

D: There is an intriguing ambiguity of an off-the-cuff, unfinished nature in your pieces that balances with a perfection of fit and shape. Can you speak more about this tension and that relationship?

C: In this I try to show the process and not polishing the traces of it or its imperfections when creating. Staying away from perfectly finished, fitting the norm kind of pieces, pictures etc. We’re all just humans. And why should we need to make things better then they are?

D: Can you tell us more about your studio and your team? What are your thoughts on scaling your business? Do you aim to remain small and independent or could you see yourself running a huge house one day?

C: We’re a small team, with a core of three in total. With my background in industrial design I’m not trained in pattern cutting or sewing. I’m the creative direction and big plans maker. At one point I looked for someone who could assist me in this. I found Tanja. She came to help me with one collection, and then she never left, luckily. A bit later I looked for someone to assist in production and sales, I found Nina. Now we manage the company together. A few days a week and in busy times we have some people coming in to assist with all different bits. It’s a great group of people that are supporting us and working with us on the brand. I always think very big and I have a lot of plans for the future, there’s never a lack of ideas! We don’t have a set future plan and I trust my intuition. However, in the near future I want to expand the website and create more of a platform, showing context to the brand and curating content and other interesting products and works. However, leading a big company, that’s never been the goal. My problem is that I’m having too many plans for things I want to do.

D: Given our complicated times, what are your thoughts on the ‘future of fashion’ in terms of retail? When you hear the news, what are you thinking of these days?

C: Well, I hope all this can be an opportunity for change. I think the fashion system as it is now and even the capitalist system in general, isn’t a healthy way of working and living. Hopefully this could be a time to rethink what is given and how, in this new context, we could live in a more responsible and respectful way. Personally I tend to only see opportunity and I try to find ways to go on... if we have to adapt, then we adapt.

D: What role does sustainability, ecology and technology play in your work?

C: Ever since high school, I’m concerned about how we treat the world. We are using it with such little respect and feeling like we are so important. This was one of the reasons of not going to fashion school because I felt I didn’t want to create more ‘nice’ things, adding to the pile. Collection after collection pushing trends, only for the sake of trends… So in everything I do I need to find a reason. Of course you can say that I do participate but I don’t want to add more products. I also put a lot of time in sourcing the fabrics and by that I am always trying to find eco, recycled or high quality fabrics that are locally made in small factories with a passion for longevity. I do believe that making a product that lasts because of material and style means thinking durable. Ultimately we are working towards a total green circularity, but it’s very hard when you are a small brand. For the moment we’re looking into working with Dutch or European suppliers that are using sustainable materials. We continue to research sustainable fabrics, buttons and packaging.

D: Are there any other influences that find their way into your work? What inspires you and who are your fashion heroes if any?

C: I don’t really have heroes. I think anyone can be inspiring and I mostly get my inspiration from reflecting on what I see around me. What people wear, what kind of creative solutions people think of for the problems they face. I love to gather pieces and pictures as inspiration and research iconic garments over time and their cultures. Of course I also look around and see what other brands or designers do, and reflect on what they do and how they do it. To see what works and doesn’t, etc. But it’s not an influence or inspiration in a creative sense or in my designs, more a reflection on how they run their brand and go about it.

D: What project are you most proud of or what part of your work this far has been most rewarding?

C: There’s nothing in particular really, I am proud of where we are now and the road we took to get here. Looking back on it, I think it’s amazing. All the friends and people who helped us and are still helping us. It’s amazing that people like the stuff we do. And so we can do what we’re doing and keep doing that.

D: What’s next?

C: Loads of plans…we’re working on several specials and collaborations. And for the coming seasons we will be adding more iconic woman’s garments. We’re very much looking into expanding to a more curated platform that is about presenting designs and people that we feel are doing things that others should see. Things like found objects and books. Finding ways to show the context of our brand.

To purchase the collection please visit Camiel Fortgens web shop here.

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